Martell

The Founding and Early History of Martell

Jean Martell arrived in Cognac in 1715, at a time when the region's distilled wines were gaining international recognition, particularly in Northern European markets. He established his trading company and began sourcing eaux-de-vie from local growers, quickly developing relationships that would shape the house's approach for generations. Martell focused on selecting spirits from specific terroirs, particularly the Borderies, which he recognized for their softer, more rounded character compared to the chalky soils of Grande Champagne.

The house grew steadily through the 18th century, surviving the French Revolution and expanding its export business significantly in the 19th century. By the 1830s, Martell had become one of the largest cognac exporters, with a particular stronghold in England and other English-speaking markets. The company remained family-owned through eight generations until 1988, when it joined the Seagram spirits group, and later became part of Pernod Ricard in 2001. Throughout these ownership changes, the production methods and blending philosophy established in the early years have remained largely intact.

The Borderies Cru and House Style

Martell's defining characteristic is its heavy reliance on eaux-de-vie from the Borderies cru, the smallest of the six cognac growing regions. Borderies occupies only about 4,000 hectares and sits on clay and flint soils that produce grapes with distinct aromatic qualities. Spirits from this region tend toward floral notes, iris and violet in particular, along with nutty characteristics and a naturally round, soft texture that requires less aging to achieve smoothness.

This emphasis on Borderies distinguishes Martell from houses like Courvoisier, which blend more heavily from Grande and Petite Champagne. The Martell blending team selects Borderies eaux-de-vie as the backbone of most expressions, complementing them with spirits from other crus to add structure and complexity. The house also distills on fine lees—the sediment of dead yeast cells that remains after fermentation—rather than filtering the wine clear before distillation. This technique, which Martell helped pioneer, adds texture and depth to the distillate.

Distillation and Aging Methods

Martell uses traditional Charentais pot stills for double distillation, but the decision to distill on fine lees sets the process apart. After fermentation, the wine is transferred to the stills without filtration, meaning the fine particles of yeast remain in suspension. During distillation, these particles contribute additional compounds that create a fuller body and more complex aromatic profile. The process requires careful management to avoid off-flavors, but when executed properly, it yields eaux-de-vie with greater richness.

Aging takes place in French oak barrels sourced primarily from the Tronçais forest, known for producing fine-grained wood with moderate tannin levels. Martell typically uses barrels with a lighter toast compared to some other cognac houses, which allows the fruit and floral characteristics of the Borderies eaux-de-vie to remain prominent rather than being overwhelmed by wood influence. The cellar master blends eaux-de-vie of different ages and crus to achieve the desired profile for each expression, with some reserve stocks dating back decades for use in the oldest bottlings.

Understanding Martell's Range of Expressions

Like all major cognac producers, Martell organizes its range according to the official age designations: VS (Very Special) indicates a minimum of two years aging, VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) requires at least four years, and XO (Extra Old) must age for a minimum of ten years, though the actual average age of the blend is typically much higher. Within these categories, Martell produces several expressions that emphasize different aspects of the house style.

The core lineup typically includes a VS expression emphasizing fruit and freshness, a VSOP that showcases the characteristic Borderies florality with more developed wood influence, and XO expressions that demonstrate how extended aging deepens complexity while maintaining smoothness. Some expressions specifically highlight the Borderies cru, while others explore different blending approaches or finishes. When evaluating any Martell expression, look for the signature rounded texture, floral aromatics, and integration of wood influence that defines the house approach—characteristics quite different from the intensity found in brandy from other grape-growing regions or the distinctive qualities of Armagnac produced in the Gascony region.

Buying Considerations for Martell Cognac

When selecting a Martell expression, consider the occasion and your flavor preferences. Younger designations work well in mixed drinks or serve as approachable introductions to the house style, offering the characteristic smoothness without the investment required for older expressions. VSOP-level offerings typically represent the sweet spot for both sipping and cocktail use, with enough age to develop complexity while remaining reasonably priced.

For serious sipping or collecting, look to XO and beyond. These expressions showcase what extended aging accomplishes with the Borderies-focused blending approach: deep integration of wood and spirit, evolved floral and nutty notes, and exceptional smoothness. When comparing Martell to other cognac houses, note that the Borderies influence creates a different profile than Grande Champagne-focused producers—less austere, more immediately accessible, with floral rather than purely fruity aromatics. Understanding this distinction helps match the spirit to your preferences and intended use.