Dos Hombres

Origins and Production Partnership

The Dos Hombres project emerged from repeated visits to Oaxaca, where Cranston and Paul developed a deeper understanding of mezcal's cultural significance and production traditions. Rather than creating a new distillery, they partnered with Gregorio Velasco Luis, a third-generation mezcalero whose family operates a palenque in the San Luis del Río region of Oaxaca. This village sits in the Central Valleys designation, one of the primary mezcal-producing zones recognized under the Denominación de Origen Mezcal, the appellation system that governs where and how mezcal can be legally produced.

The partnership model preserves the Morales family's production methods while providing the brand founders with direct involvement in the process, from agave selection through distillation. The palenque uses techniques that predate modern industrial distillation: agave piñas are roasted underground for several days, imparting the smoky character that distinguishes mezcal from other agave spirits. After roasting, the cooked agave is crushed by a horse-drawn tahona, a large stone wheel that has been used in mezcal production for centuries. This mechanical crushing method produces a mix of agave fibers and juice that ferments together, contributing to the final spirit's textural complexity.

Espadin Agave and Production Method

Dos Hombres produces mezcal exclusively from Agave angustifolia, commonly known as espadin, which accounts for approximately 90 percent of all mezcal production in Mexico. Espadin agave reaches maturity in seven to ten years, significantly faster than some wild or semi-cultivated agave species that can take 15 to 30 years to mature. This relatively quick maturation cycle has made espadin the foundation of commercial mezcal production, though its widespread use does not diminish the skill required to transform it into quality spirit.

The specific terroir of San Luis del Río—its elevation, soil composition, and microclimate—influences the flavor profile of the agave grown there. After harvest, the agave hearts are roasted in conical earthen pits lined with volcanic rock and covered with agave leaves and earth. This roasting process, which lasts three to five days, caramelizes the agave's natural sugars while infusing the plant material with smoke from the wood fire used to heat the rocks. Following roasting and crushing, the agave mash ferments in open-air wooden vats using wild yeasts naturally present in the palenque environment. Fermentation duration varies with temperature and conditions but typically takes five to seven days. The fermented mash is then distilled twice in small-batch copper pot stills, a method that allows for greater control over flavor development and separation of unwanted compounds.

Understanding Joven Mezcal

Dos Hombres produces joven mezcal, also called mezcal blanco or mezcal silvestre, meaning the spirit is unaged and bottled shortly after distillation. Joven expressions represent the purest expression of the agave and the production method, with no influence from wood aging that would introduce barrel-derived flavors like vanilla, caramel, or spice. This category allows drinkers to taste the terroir of the agave, the impact of the roasting process, and the character imparted by fermentation and distillation without additional layers of complexity or smoothing from time in wood.

The joven category dominates traditional mezcal consumption in Mexico, where the spirit is typically enjoyed neat at room temperature to appreciate its full range of flavors. While some mezcal producers have introduced reposado and añejo expressions aged in oak barrels—often to appeal to consumers familiar with aged tequila—the joven category remains the standard for evaluating a producer's skill. When assessing joven mezcal, drinkers should note the balance between smoke intensity and the underlying agave character, the presence of fruit or floral notes, any mineral or earthy qualities, and the texture or mouthfeel of the liquid. Higher-proof bottlings, typically between 45 and 50 percent alcohol by volume, often deliver more pronounced flavors and a fuller body than lower-proof alternatives.

The Mezcal Category and Its Growth

Dos Hombres entered the market during a period of significant growth for mezcal in international markets, particularly in the United States. Between 2015 and 2020, mezcal exports to the U.S. increased more than threefold as bartenders incorporated the spirit into cocktails and consumers developed interest in agave spirits beyond tequila. This growth paralleled increased attention to traditional production methods, regional distinctions, and the work of individual mezcaleros whose family traditions span multiple generations.

The mezcal category encompasses spirits produced from more than 30 different agave species across nine Mexican states, though Oaxaca remains the dominant production region, accounting for approximately 85 percent of all mezcal. The Denominación de Origen Mezcal, established in 1995 and expanded in subsequent years, defines where mezcal can be produced and sets basic production standards, though these regulations remain more flexible than those governing tequila. This regulatory framework recognizes three production classifications: mezcal ancestral (using clay pot distillation and underground roasting), mezcal artesanal (using copper pot stills and underground roasting), and mezcal (which permits industrial methods including autoclaves and column stills). Most traditionally produced mezcal, including Dos Hombres, falls under the artesanal classification.

Evaluating and Selecting Mezcal

When selecting mezcal, several factors help distinguish between different expressions and production approaches. The agave varietal forms the foundation of the spirit's flavor profile: espadin typically offers vegetal, herbal, and citrus notes with moderate smoke, while wild or semi-cultivated varieties like tobala, tepeztate, or madre-cuishe can present more intense, complex, or unusual flavor characteristics. Production methods also significantly impact the final spirit—mezcal roasted in smaller underground pits often exhibits more pronounced smoke than mezcal roasted in larger pits or above-ground ovens.

The proof at which mezcal is bottled influences both flavor intensity and texture. Many artisanal producers bottle at the proof that comes off the still, which can range from 45 to 52 percent alcohol by volume, rather than adjusting the spirit to a standard commercial proof like 40 percent. Higher-proof bottlings generally deliver more concentrated flavors and a richer mouthfeel, though they require slower sipping to avoid alcohol burn overwhelming the palate. The presence of clear production information on the label—including the maestro mezcalero's name, the specific village or region of production, the type of still used, and the agave species—typically indicates a producer's commitment to transparency and traditional methods. Certifications from the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal ensure that the spirit meets basic legal standards, though some acclaimed producers operate outside the official certification system.